alex37211 Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Okay so I'm trying to take off the 32mm axle nuts from my 97 GSR. I sprayed them with liquid wrench about 10 minutes prior to the procedure. I had a 3/4 in. breaker bar and a 1/2 in. 32mm deep impact socket so I had to use a 3/4 to 1/2 in. adapter. The adapter was a deep impact piece too. I stuck a 6 foot steel pipe on the end of my breaker bar and torqued that bitch until i felt it turn a little. The nut did not turn. My deep impact adapter twisted like a rubik's cube. So I went and bought a cheap 25" long 1/2" breaker bar and repeated the torquing process accept this time, I didn't feel it twist, it just snapped. It snapped the end of the breaker bar off.>_< I don't have an air compressor and the car is not drivable for me to take it too a shop. Any advise? ...and yes, I straightened out the little tab with a punch first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EH6TunerDaniel Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Quit being a bitch. Ha, jk. Did you try using pblaster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elusiveshame Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Try heating it up first? There might be some anti-seize or thread lock on the nut. That was actually the problem in my old CRX - we snapped 4 breaker bars before we said f*ck it and heated the bitch up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastresort576 Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Try heating it up first? There might be some anti-seize or thread lock on the nut. That was actually the problem in my old CRX - we snapped 4 breaker bars before we said f*ck it and heated the bitch up. anti-sieze keeping it locked on? anyways yes heat is most likely what ull need to do. get the nut/area hot for like 5 minutes, get out ur BFH and give it a few whacks, soak with pb blaster, heat again and then you should be able to get it right off...try to do it all fairly quickly though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted May 20, 2008 Author Share Posted May 20, 2008 Quit being a bitch. Ha, jk. Did you try using pblaster. i'm not a bitch. :( lol. Hey, is pblaster really that much better that liquid wrench? I'm gonna go and get a craftsman 1/2" breaker bar. Cause' that p.o.s. that I was using came from a discount hardware place and it costed $10. It's probably about as strong as a craftsman socket wrench. And I'm not doggin' craftsman socket wrenches. I've seen those things take some abuse. I'm just sayin' for a 25" long 1/2 in. breaker bar, that crap that I was using snapped like it was made from wood. Also, are deep impact pieces actually stronger overall (like on breaker bars) or just made for better use with impact guns? Oh yeah, and anyone ever used this "freeze off" stuff? I got a can of it cause' it was on clearance. http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-...4&id=724486 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 Never used freeze-off, but stay away from those $10 tools, they are a waste of your time and money. I switched to Craftsman a few years ago while trying to get the spindle nut (same thing your doing, "spindle nut" is what Honda calls it), when I twisted a few tools into little pieces. You seem to have made it past lesson 1: never use adapters when removing the spindle nut. Once you have your Craftsman breaker bar, if it doesn't come off (and trust me when I say you should not be able to break the Craftsman, the nut will either come off or stay on), you will need to either rent borrow an impact driver as the spindle nut may have been over torqued. Which brings up another point, do you have a torque wrench for the installation of that spindle nut's replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmgogo Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 you need to get that breaker on there and hit it with a 12lb hammer, impact sockets are made for exactly that, impact, slow sustained torque on them tends to break them, vice versa for standards, sharp fast torque tends to break standard sockets. So heres what you need to do 1. Soak in PB blaster (WAAAY better than liquid wrench) overnight 2. Heat it up with a propane torch 3. Put on the breaker bar, and smack the sht outa it 4. spray more pb, repeat step 3, then 4, then 3, then 4, etc etc etc till it the nut cools, then reheat and redo until you get the somamabtch off. then step 5, drink beer, clean threads once its off, and torque to proper torque using NEW spindle nut. PS freeze off is useless, dont bother with it, tends to make the metal brittle, and i doubt you want to go install a new stud. and yes i know this from a professional standpoint of working with 20+mm nuts and bolts at a job i had a while ago working on semi trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastresort576 Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 Never used freeze-off, but stay away from those $10 tools, they are a waste of your time and money. I switched to Craftsman a few years ago while trying to get the spindle nut (same thing your doing, "spindle nut" is what Honda calls it), when I twisted a few tools into little pieces. You seem to have made it past lesson 1: never use adapters when removing the spindle nut. Once you have your Craftsman breaker bar, if it doesn't come off (and trust me when I say you should not be able to break the Craftsman, the nut will either come off or stay on), you will need to either rent borrow an impact driver as the spindle nut may have been over torqued. Which brings up another point, do you have a torque wrench for the installation of that spindle nut's replacement? lol i was removing the axels to pull an engine outof a parts car and after breaking a craftsman t-handle bar(no longer made), (2)1/2" ratchet's, a couple sockets, i decided to go pick up a 24" 1/2" dr. breaker bar($40 and 30 minutes away) went back to work and within 5 minutes sheer'd the head off of that...went exchanged it with 3minutes before closing time, came home then torch'd the crap outta it with map gas in the order i had mentioned before and finally got it off. and i utilized those steps on the other side and had it off in 20min. *but luckily i just got some husky air tools 26g tank, impact gun, air ratchet, die grinder, tire inflator/pressure gauge, spray gun, and air chisel for $289 before tax. and air tools make a world of a difference!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 no crap. i struggled all afternoon with one on my accord and gave up and took it to a shop back in the day. i now have a 25g compressor, cheap harbor freight $29 impact and their $20 impact sockets. i just took the spindle nuts off of the sol the other day and it required one jet of pb, 5 minute wait and 15 seconds with the 425lb impact. I spent more time trying to find a bottle opener then what it too to remove them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 Well I finally got them off. I used an electric impact gun just to jar them a little and maybe crack some rust and then guess what broke them loose? A 1/2" craftsman socket wrench with a cheater bar on the end of it. The liquid wrench soaking overnight may have played a role. Or maybe it was the vibration of the impact gun (it's not very strong, i can actually hold the socket still with my bare hand while it's going), in any case, they came off without any heat. I thought that socket wrench would break for sure but my friend said to try it (it was his wrench). I couldn't believe it worked after I broke an actual breaker bar prying on those godawful nuts. Kudos to craftsman. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 it would be the impact that did it, most likely. most impacts you can hold the socket hard enough to keep it from spinning and that is the beauty of it. doesn't damage bolts and rather gently breaks them loose by hitting all sides evenly with pressure. any cheater bar, or ratchet you use applies pressure at an angle primarily on one side instead of even distributed straight on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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