spruce_capital Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 I wonder if someone could tell me if there is an easy way of telling whether the timing belt is still intact IE the cam shaft is still turning? 1990 Honda Accord 4 Cyl. I believe it is a SOHC Thanks, Norm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxscaxx Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 the car wont run if your timing belt is not intact. i remember my dad's splash guard fell off on his van and it was raining and the timing belt got wet, and started to slip off, and the car slowly started to die out (like the lights stopped working, the wipers, loss of power etc) and he got to the top of my driveway and the car died out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xer0 Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Does your car run? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spruce_capital Posted October 14, 2006 Author Share Posted October 14, 2006 the car wont run if your timing belt is not intact. i remember my dad's splash guard fell off on his van and it was raining and the timing belt got wet, and started to slip off, and the car slowly started to die out (like the lights stopped working, the wipers, loss of power etc) and he got to the top of my driveway and the car died out. Therein lies my problem (It doesn't run), it has fuel, so it's not the in that area, the rotor in the distributor turns, but I am unsure what this tells me, hence my question about an easy way of telling if the belt is intact? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xer0 Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 the car wont run if your timing belt is not intact. i remember my dad's splash guard fell off on his van and it was raining and the timing belt got wet, and started to slip off, and the car slowly started to die out (like the lights stopped working, the wipers, loss of power etc) and he got to the top of my driveway and the car died out. Is that form timing belt of the belt that turned the altinator (serpentine belt)? I though the timing belt turned the cam to make the valves open and close? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xer0 Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Therein lies my problem (It doesn't run), it has fuel, so it's not the in that area, the rotor in the distributor turns, but I am unsure what this tells me, hence my question about an easy way of telling if the belt is intact? You geting spark at the point, plugs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxscaxx Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 just look at it lol. should be on the right side i believe and you'll see a bunch of pulleys and stuff. you might not be getting spark. you check the plugs and wires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xer0 Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Does the car try to turn over or when u turn the key nothing happens? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spruce_capital Posted October 14, 2006 Author Share Posted October 14, 2006 You geting spark at the point, plugs? Nope no spark at plug, now I'm from the old school IE distributor points etc Can you give some hints on what is the most likely cause here? Thanks, Norm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xer0 Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Could be a bad dizzy I was reading a post on HT and a guy had the same problem and found out it was the dizzy after trying all this different stuff. http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=17...postid=24102055 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Distributor or coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spruce_capital Posted October 14, 2006 Author Share Posted October 14, 2006 Could be a bad dizzy I was reading a post on HT and a guy had the same problem and found out it was the dizzy after trying all this different stuff. http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=17...postid=24102055 And a "dizzy" is an acronym for what? Sorry, I'm an ol phart! Found another post that said if the rotor turns, the timing belt is still intact. So that answers one of my previous posts. I have continuity from the + to - of the coil and from either one of them to the High tension spring, so my guess is that the coil is okay. From here I'm a little lost, as I don't know much about the newer style ignitions. There is a large module with 4 or 5 wires on it plus what I think is the pointless part of the ignition with only two wires on it. Situated like the points in old style system Anybody got some ideas on which is the likely suspect or, how or what to check to determine same? Thanks Norm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xer0 Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 And a "dizzy" is an acronym for what? Sorry, I'm an ol phart! Distributor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spruce_capital Posted October 20, 2006 Author Share Posted October 20, 2006 Distributor Thanks to all for their suggestions. It was a bad ignition coil. Eventho the resistance of the coil matched that of the manual, it wouldn't work on the bench. (I know, shoulda tried that first) 20/20 hindsight Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 if your dizzy rotor is turning than your timing belt is intact. sounds like you need a new dizzy , or a component in the dizzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spruce_capital Posted October 21, 2006 Author Share Posted October 21, 2006 if your dizzy rotor is turning than your timing belt is intact. sounds like you need a new dizzy , or a component in the dizzy I guess you didn't read my post before you sent this one? Just to clarify, I found the problem and it was the ignition coil. In the "For What It's Worth Department" One of the fellows at a local parts store, told me that if there is no spark, it's a 50/50 chance that it is either the Ignitor module or the ignition coil. 'Tis much cheaper to replace either of those than to replace the whole distributor. In case anyone out there has the same problem, the resistance tests of the coil, didn't reflect that it was bad. I found that out by hooking it up on the bench to a spark plug, and then momentarily applying 12V to the coil, with a power supply, and watching for a spark on the plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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