airhunt2 Posted December 19, 2006 Share Posted December 19, 2006 Hey, my 94 Accord's tachometer has suddenly stopped falling to zero rpm. It sticks at around 2200 RPM, and won't go below that, but will function fine once I get the RPM's above 2200. It's been like this for a few days now, and nothing I've tried will get it to drop back down. I do not have aftermarket gauges installed, never have. This is a stock car (daily driver) so no mods have been made to alter anything there. Any ideas? It's a 94 EX automatic. One thing I can offer is that by the two screws, there are small bubbles where it looks like the glue has come undone holding the face of the gauge down, but they aren't big enough to touch the needle, at least as far as I can tell. Thanks for any ideas! :help: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airhunt2 Posted December 19, 2006 Author Share Posted December 19, 2006 Hey, my 94 Accord's tachometer has suddenly stopped falling to zero rpm. It sticks at around 2200 RPM, and won't go below that, but will function fine once I get the RPM's above 2200. It's been like this for a few days now, and nothing I've tried will get it to drop back down. I do not have aftermarket gauges installed, never have. This is a stock car (daily driver) so no mods have been made to alter anything there. Any ideas? It's a 94 EX automatic. One thing I can offer is that by the two screws, there are small bubbles where it looks like the glue has come undone holding the face of the gauge down, but they aren't big enough to touch the needle, at least as far as I can tell. Thanks for any ideas! :help: Ok so I think it might be the bubbles there because they've gotten bigger, so my next question is this.. How do I go about getting the bezel off so I can deal with the gauge face? I've never taken one of these puppies off on a Honda, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocifero Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 Ok so I think it might be the bubbles there because they've gotten bigger, so my next question is this.. How do I go about getting the bezel off so I can deal with the gauge face? I've never taken one of these puppies off on a Honda, so any help would be greatly appreciated. i could write up a long paragraph telling you exactly how to do it, but that would take a while. instead, you should purchase a Haynes manual from pep boys or autozone. its like $15 and it tells you how to do any maintenance on the car. its usually pretty simple and straight forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airhunt2 Posted December 20, 2006 Author Share Posted December 20, 2006 i could write up a long paragraph telling you exactly how to do it, but that would take a while. instead, you should purchase a Haynes manual from pep boys or autozone. its like $15 and it tells you how to do any maintenance on the car. its usually pretty simple and straight forward. Ok, I was hoping it was just a few hidden screws and bam it's done. I'm an Eclipse guy so that's where my knowledge lies, in the DSM's. Good deal though, I'll get a manual and have at it. Thanks for the reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmpbas Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 Hi airhunt2: I get the same thing on my 95 EX, but sometime the check engine is light up and goes away while driving. Did you have the same experience ? Did you replace the gauge face and it solve the problem ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolcat467 Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 old old old old old Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humphries Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 god that volicifero guy's accord is exactly what i wanted mine to look like. but with H23A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolcat467 Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 Damn his is nice. You should have kept the accord. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humphries Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 When i get a house, my garage will be bigger than the house will be. 9+ cars. i'll have one later... my accord was just too far gone. both rear 1/4s were unrepairable unless i bought RQPs. The trunk and latch were broken and the trunk was held down by duct tape. the car was slow. The front end was off.. and i didnt want to fix it. current car is better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolcat467 Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 true Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 First of all, Haynes manuals are a waste of money. Sorry velocifero. Buy a Honda Service Manual published by Honda Motor Co., Ltd.; the text is available at your dealership or through Helm Incorporated online. The information below is provided from mine, Honda P/N 61SV405. The year is 1997, but differences in the I-4 should be minor as far as the Ignition system is concerned. Helm Incorporated: $64.00 Honda P/N 61SV400, www.helminc.com Secondly, you need to eliminate any mechanical issues you may have with the tachometer and should therefore remove the component located in your Gauge Assembly and check the movement of the needle for any hesitation or resistance. If this is not the issue then you have an electrical issue that needs to be addressed in the engine bay. Thirdly, the bubbles are simply a raised portion of the gauge face. They are supposed to be there. Mechanical Problem: Removal of the tachometer gauge: TURN YOUR CAR OFF, LET IT SIT FOR 3 MINUTES or you could inadvertently deploy the SRS. Take out rear console: Cup holder first, then the little door under the arm rest. Remove 3 screws and then pull up and back (toward the rear seats). The console should come right out. Take out front console: Take out your ash tray, then remove 3 screws and pull back and up. There are 6 retainer clips holding the front console in; if the metal part pops off, pull it out and slide it back on the front console. Remove all switches from the Instrument Panel: I find it is easier to remove the Steering Column Lower Cover at this point. It is the plastic that is in front of your knees when you are in the driver seat. The Steering Column Lower Cover covers the metallic Driver’s Knee Bolster that is bolted behind it. It is only held in by retainer clips, so just pull on it until it pops out. Then you can reach up under the Instrument Panel and push the switches from behind. Remove the Moonroof/Cruise Control switch, Dash Brightness controller, and the Rear Defogger switch. Take out Instrument Panel: Remove the 6 screws holding it in: 1 behind the Moonroof/Cruise Control switch, 1 behind the Dash Brightness controller, 2 above the Gauge Assembly, 2 below the A/C Controls. Take out the Gauge Assembly: Remove the 4 screws holding it in: 2 on bottom, 1 left, and 1 right. Installation is in the reverse order. From here, you should be able to pull apart the Meter Visor from the rear cover. Be careful not to damage the printed circuit boards. The tachometer is held in by 3 screws. Electrical problem: Remember, you tachometer indicates 100 rpm for every 200 pulses per minute it receives from the Ignition Control Module (ICM). Your tachometer is simple in that it only has one blue wire coming from the ICM, and the wire goes straight to your dash with only one plug for the Test Tachometer Connector. In both F22B1 and F22B2 (DX, LX, SE, Canadian EX; and USA EX, Canadian EX-R; respectively), the tachometer is wired the same, both with a blue wire coming from the distributor. The following in taken from my Honda 1997 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual, Honda P/N 61SV405EL. You have 5 connections between the distributor and the tachometer. First Connector, C138: Between your throttle body and the spark plug wires going to the distributor, from above looking down, you will see two connectors side-by-side. Both are grey, and one has two wires, the other has 4. The one with 4 wires is C138. Second Connector, C134: Facing your windshield, on the right side of your engine bay is a metal box with small heat dissipation fins on top (about 11). There is one grey connector with 8 wires, this is C134. Third Connector, C403: This is the only 18-wire blue connector on the front of the fuse box, below your Integrated Control Unit (black box above your fuses). Fourth Connector, C602: This connector is found on the back of the fuse box and is the 16-wire blue connector. Fifth Connector, C609: This is the 22-wire green connector you had to disconnect to remove the Gauge Assembly. Check your connections; if nothing is preventing the gauge from receiving 200 pulses per minute, then something in the distributor is preventing the gauge from “seeing” the pulses below a certain rpm. If you have a test tachometer, plug it into Connection-265. C265 is the 2-wire white connector near your Cruise Control Actuator Assembly and your Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box. If your test tachometer works fine, the problem is in the Gauge Assembly. If you’re feeling ballsy, remove the tachometer from your dash and hard wire it to C265. Replace everything and start your car to see if the component is functioning properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 On second thought, the bubbles might be the problem, see above on how to remove the tach'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolcat467 Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 This post is like 8 months old man. Don't waste your time providing your info to nobody. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humphries Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 could be helpful for someone else searching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolcat467 Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 NO!!! it couldn't Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humphries Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 oh yeah.. it is useless information! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolcat467 Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 James, keep posting the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airhunt2 Posted July 8, 2007 Author Share Posted July 8, 2007 James, keep posting the info. Hahaha you guys are cracking me up. Sorry for not posting this before, but the bubbles were caused by the cold winter weather here in Oklahoma, and the bubbles formed by the screws that hold the gauge face on. Now that it's warm, the bubbles are gone, and hence my problem of the tach needle being stuck as well. Thanks for the helpful input by most of you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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