blawson Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Hi, I'm new here. Nice place y'all got going. So I've owned this great little Accord for about a year. It's in pretty good shape, at about 67k miles in over 10 years... I inherited it from my 90 year old grandmother. For a little while, I've been hearing some intermittent brake squeal, and, well, I turned the radio up. Last week I heard that awful grinding noise that I take to mean there's a pad shot. In retrospect, I think I drove it around for a week with it doing that, I smelled something funny a couple times - the radio must still have been up. So I pulled the left front wheel and took a look, it looks like I've ground a bit off the outer quarter inch or so of the rotor, and I'm guessing it's time to pay for the loud stereo-playing. I can't quite tell, but either the inside pad is gone or broken (pictures at bottom). I've never done brake work before, but I have some backup. Between us we've only ever worked on volvos and VWs. Anyone know any pitfalls or gotchas related to this car and this job? I read what other posts I could search up on brakes and rotors and I think I know what I'm getting into. Oh, and recommendations on pads/rotors and maybe a good online shop (tire rack?) would be much appreciated. Thanks, B right front, inside face of rotor - dark part is smooth 'n shiny, outside is deeper and rough but not rusty. right front brake, looking in at the inside of the rotor - looks either broken or goners: outside face of rotor, looks fine, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 replacing the pads and rotors isnt hard at all. pretty self explanitory, i did it myself last year. you can get a haynes manuel for your car and they have a step by step with pictures for pretty much anything you want. i have brembo rotors and pads and i like them a lot. i just did a google search for them and found the cheapest prices Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoonkid Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 just do them, its an easy job... the worst thing that'll happen is your squeal wont go away, but you'lll have brand new stoppage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffro Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Not hard. Just make sure you have a large C-clamp handy to compress the piston. Trying to compress it other ways is just a waste of time.o:) And I personally hate doing rotors, but its only getting the f-ing screws out to get the thing started, but it is definately worth the money savings to do it yourself. Nothin' to it, really... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 c clamp is a must. some have a + cut into the piston , these you turn back in. for get the 2 starhead screws holding rotors on. most new rotors dont even have the holes. attempt it if you wish , i just drill the heads off and next step. make sure you grease your sliders and free them up if stuck any. 2-14mm bolts holding caliper on(could be 12mm). 2- 17mm bolts holding caliper mount on. if rotor is stuck , grab a hammer and persuade it , lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GsrCrx Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 I have brembo replacement rotors, they are awesome with the green stuff pads I bought.. I found them cheapest at autopartswarehouse.com... free shipping.. I compressed the piston with one of those wood clamps.... It was ghetto but it got the job done... And those screws SUCK... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 told you , lol , just drill them out , lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 i used a heat torch for those screws to loosen up the metal, then they twisted right out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 heat always works , just not everyone has access. you know the propane/oxygen tanks you can get at autoparts stores , are good. you can even cut steel with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blawson Posted January 19, 2007 Author Share Posted January 19, 2007 i used a heat torch for those screws to loosen up the metal, then they twisted right out Would an OxyA torch be overkill? Just kidding, I've got a impact driver around somewhere, one of those hit-it-with-a-hammer jobs. so the procedure in the haynes manual involves disconnecting the steering knuckle from the shaft, then it says to replace the cotter pins with new on reassembly, but it doesn't mention what size pin it is... anyone know offhand? I bought some ceramic pads and brembo replacement discs from tire rack. they got it shipped real quick, made me happy. now the weather better hold out for sunday. -b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 And pump your brakes when you're done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blawson Posted January 29, 2007 Author Share Posted January 29, 2007 Ok, that was not easy. Maybe cause it is a low miles car, but everything required much persuasion. I thought the axle nut would be the worst, but it was fairly easy. Getting the lower control arm off the steering knuckle balljoint, and the hub off the knuckle were mind bogglingly difficult. In any case, im done, and I'm happy. -b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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