yte0012 Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 After sitting in my garage over the weekend, my '95 EX gave me two problems immediately and then threw in another during the last 3 minutes of my drive to work. I can't think of how they all could be related to one another, but maybe someone with more knowledge of these things can help me out: Problem 1 : the friction point moved from roughly the midpoint between fully out and fully depressed to just barely above the floor. This issue was immediately evident when I put the car in gear. Based on what I've read, this sounds like I'm leaking hydraulic fluid from the cylinder. Problem 2: the gearshift has become extremely difficult to get into any gear. By "difficult", I mean it feels like the "above-15mph" lockout for 1st gear has expanded to cover every gear at any speed, and gotten tougher to push through to boot. Once pushed or pulled into place, the gear engages without too much trouble (I did notice a little hesitation at around 4K rpm). Problems 1 and 2 seem like they could be related, altough in my research I didn't find any mention of resistance when moving the shifter into gear if it's a cylinder (I can wiggle the shifter in neutral just like normal - it's only a problem when I try to push/pull it into gear). Problem 3: in minute 25 of my 30 minute drive to work, I notice the oil light flashing steadily. Since the wheel obstructs my view of the light, it might have been on for a few minutes before I noticed it, but it seems unlikely that I missed it for the entire drive. I checked the oil when I stopped - the dipstick was slightly wet, but there wasn't enough oil to read a level. Since I had just driven for 30 minutes, I'm hoping that almost all of the oil was up in the crankcase. In any event, is it possible for all 3 issues to be related? What would cause #2 and #3? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Also, is it safe for me to drive home (if the oil and/or hydraulic fluid levels are low, I'll drive about 1 mile to a service station before making the rest of my trip)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 the oil being down is your neglect , check it more often and make sure it doesnt EVER go down enough to make that light come on again. you need a clutch master cylinder , or clutch slave cylinder , one or the other. no biggie dude , but dont drive it like that , youl ruin your tranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dabbs93Accord Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Problems 1 and 2 are directly related. I've had the same problem with my ex-prelude a few years back. Check the the clutch fluid reservior. When you open it you should see a little plastic float thing. If there is enough fluid in it, chances are you don't have a leak. If there isn't fluid in it, there's your problem. (It takes DOT 3 brake fluid by the way) The reason you can put it into gear easily is because the clutch isn't depressed enough to allow a smoth shift, because it has lost pressure. I got lucky with my lude, I started the car and let it run, while pumping the cluth pedal, for about 10 minutes or so. Try to put it in gear after that and see if it is llike normal. That did the trick for me, may not for you, but you can always try it. I always assumed I had a leak, but the problem never presented itself after that. Who knows. As for the oil, check it cold, if it's low than that's your problem. If not, you could need an oil sending unit or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yte0012 Posted February 20, 2007 Author Share Posted February 20, 2007 Thanks for the replies. Here's an update: I checked the oil when the motor was cold, and it was low but not gone. I was able to add enough to get me back into the "safe zone", and I'm going to change it later today. As for the clutch & gearshift, the fluid level was within 1 mm of the MIN marking. I tried pumping the clutch before driving to buy brake fluid, and that didn't seem to help much. Once I got going, I decided to use "clutchless" shift timing to see if depressing the clutch pedal was having any effect; once I remembered how to do it right, the shifting got MUCH easier, and it was clear that the clutch pedal wasn't helping at all. I bought some DOT 3 and filled the resevoir to the MAX level. Nothing changed at first, but around 5 minutes later the clutch came to life and the shifting was mostly back to normal. I didn't have time to check the fluid level this morning before I drove to work, but the clutch pedal still worked (it's actually harder to depress than it was before I had this problem - did I overfill the resevoir?). Assuming I don't have any leaks, should I worry about the master or slave cylinder? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 what do you mean did you overfill it? its got a line to tell you , lol. never shift the car without the clutch dude , jesus. glad to hear it was just fluid level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dabbs93Accord Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Assuming I don't have any leaks, should I worry about the master or slave cylinder? Thanks. Not yet atleast, see what happens. Like I said my old lude had the same problem, although the clutch itself sucked, it worked fine after the problem went away, Just periodically, like once a week, check the fluid. If you find yourself adding a lot of fluid, get it check out. Oh, and don't worry about overfilling it a little, that's no biggie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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