SKIP Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 Any tips or tricks as to how this is done? I had to beat that outer nut off and was wondering what exact size it is so I can pick up a socket or wrench to fit properly. Any advice would be sweet, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99HondaAccord Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 Any tips or tricks as to how this is done? I had to beat that outer nut off and was wondering what exact size it is so I can pick up a socket or wrench to fit properly. Any advice would be sweet, thanks. What kind of rotor??? brake rotor??? Engine rotor??? Alternator rotor??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKIP Posted March 19, 2007 Author Share Posted March 19, 2007 What kind of rotor??? brake rotor??? Engine rotor??? Alternator rotor??? Ahh... sorry, front brake rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crxtacy Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 size is a 36mm socket.May want to use an impact gun on it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vizion Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 Any tips or tricks as to how this is done? I had to beat that outer nut off and was wondering what exact size it is so I can pick up a socket or wrench to fit properly. Any advice would be sweet, thanks. THis is a very tedious task as it requires you to disengage many parts. First, axle nut = 36mm socket 1/2" drive. Second, disengage the tie-rod end from steering knuckle. 3rd, separate lower control arm balljoint. 4th, separate the upper balljoint. 5th, carefully pull the steering knuckle out. With the steering knuckle on the ground, remove 4 bolts that retain the the hub/brake disc to steering knuckle (on the back). Then remove the 4 bolts that retain the brake disc to the hub. Installation is vice versa. Hope this helps or just purchase one of the Haynes manual book. Ohh, you can borrow these tools from your local AutoZone, it's free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 ? All he has to do is get the axle nut off and then seperate the rotor from the hub. He won't have to seperate any balljoints if he can just do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GsrCrx Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 To change a rotor or the hub? If your doing a rotor, you dont have to take the axe nut off, just the 2 screws that hold it on?!?!? Or am I totally wrong here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nklimek Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 THis is a very tedious task as it requires you to disengage many parts. First, axle nut = 36mm socket 1/2" drive. Second, disengage the tie-rod end from steering knuckle. 3rd, separate lower control arm balljoint. 4th, separate the upper balljoint. 5th, carefully pull the steering knuckle out. With the steering knuckle on the ground, remove 4 bolts that retain the the hub/brake disc to steering knuckle (on the back). Then remove the 4 bolts that retain the brake disc to the hub. Installation is vice versa. Hope this helps or just purchase one of the Haynes manual book. Ohh, you can borrow these tools from your local AutoZone, it's free. i did a disc change on my 94 which should b the same. all of this sounds correct and yes that axle nut is a bitch. One of mine would not come off, i put a half inch drive with 3 ft cheeter bar on it and broke three ratchets then bent one in half with the help of my friend. THen we put an 300 ft lb. impact on it and it did not budge. i ended up cutting it off and had to buy a new half shaft. If you can not get it off after everything i told u, u should probably take it to a shop to get it off. o, yeah i believ the reason mine would not come off was because the last people to remove the nut impacted it on so tight, i believ the threads were fused together. A tran. shop was the ones who had the nut off last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nklimek Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 i did a disc change on my 94 which should b the same. all of this sounds correct and yes that axle nut is a bitch. One of mine would not come off, i put a half inch drive with 3 ft cheeter bar on it and broke three ratchets then bent one in half with the help of my friend. THen we put an 300 ft lb. impact on it and it did not budge. i ended up cutting it off and had to buy a new half shaft. If you can not get it off after everything i told u, u should probably take it to a shop to get it off. o, yeah i believ the reason mine would not come off was because the last people to remove the nut impacted it on so tight, i believ the threads were fused together. A tran. shop was the ones who had the nut off last. also u will most likely have to get the discs pressed off the hub and the new ones pressed back on.--Napa does good job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5-gen Williams Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 Does anyone know of a link to online diagrams of rotor/hub assembly? I have a 96 and I'd like to get at the wheel bearings.... Also isn't the reason that the 36mm axle nut is on there so tight is because they hit it with a centerpunch at the factory and bend part of the nut into an indentation in the axle? Or is it just ultra-ranched down anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nklimek Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 Does anyone know of a link to online diagrams of rotor/hub assembly? I have a 96 and I'd like to get at the wheel bearings.... Also isn't the reason that the 36mm axle nut is on there so tight is because they hit it with a centerpunch at the factory and bend part of the nut into an indentation in the axle? Or is it just ultra-ranched down anyway. thats just like a keeper, bend that piece back before u try to take it off. But it probably will still b really tight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5-gen Williams Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 thats just like a keeper, bend that piece back before u try to take it off. But it probably will still b really tight Ok, thx I found out a few more things about wheel/hub assembly in the meantime - 1. You need a tool to pull the whole thing apart when you get in there or it works a lot better if you've got it. 2. Axle nut is torqued to ~180 ft/lb anyway so its on there real good even without keeper. 3. They have a trained gigantic gorilla at the factory that assembles Hondas so if you're taking apart anything for the first time, U got to crank it!!! Like an animal. Moral of this story: get more car tools!!!!!!!! And tell Honda to give their gigantic gorilla more bananas so it puts the bolts on more easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillyhonda800 Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 5-gen williams, your 3rd reason is hysterical. i also own a 96 acc and also need to replace my front rotors. stopping is like seeing or feeling a washer machine on the spin cycle. anyway, i also bought the socket from sears (sucker was $25.00) and used an extension pipe for torque. damn gorillas, i couldn't get it to budge. the dimple pivoted into the notch on the axle thread secures the bolt even further. by the way, i've tried clockwise and counterwise. no dice. my best bet is to take it to the shop and avoid any further headaches. BEWARE: if you do succeed in removing the hub, inspect the bearings and housing unit within the hub. you may need to replace shot bearings and resurface the hub housing. aight, good luck peeps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted June 20, 2007 Share Posted June 20, 2007 Ingredients: 1 three foot breaker bar 1 36mm impact driver socket 1 Honda jack (look in your trunk) Directions: First expose the spindle nut, whether this means removing hub cabs or removing the center cap on your Honda rims. Replace the wheel/tire and have your car on the ground with the rear parking break engaged. Then attach the impact driver socket (36mm) to the 3 foot breaker bar Third, raise the jack to sit under the socket in front of your wheel. This is to support the socket and help keep it in place. Place the bar/socket on the spindle nut with the socket resting on the jack and bar in a 10 o’clock position. Take your right foot (for the passenger side US) and place it on the socket with weight on your left foot. Then step up, shifting your weight to your right foot, onto the bar with your left foot. Hold onto your A-Pillar for balance and support. Now bounce on your left foot. As you become more confident, edge out onto the bar with your right foot. Keep your balance and keep bouncing. I have never met a spindle nut I could not break free. I even forgot to open the tap (that is tapped down in the groove) and this technique ripped it open and split open the spindle nut as it came off. Honda instructs you to replace the spindle nut every time it is removed. So go to your dealer and buy 5 or 6. That should cover you for the life of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted June 20, 2007 Share Posted June 20, 2007 Dude this thread died in April. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5-gen Williams Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 James M. - thanks for the tips...I wonder if the above would work with everything you said except for bending back the keeper out of the slot then using an impact driver + 36 mm socket instead of a 3-ft cheater bar & standing on it? From everything I've heard, probably not but I'm a little nervous about using my weight to wrench on nuts, I weigh like 200 pounds and then what happens when the nut gives way, I fall off the whole assembly and then my friends who are sitting there drinking beer and not helping laugh at me! Kegger - yes its old but no less relevant today, because if you are out driving, and your engine fails, you've got a problem, but if your brakes fail, that's a disaster!!!! I know its unlikely that theyre just going to completely not work even if the rotors are shot but I've been in a car when the brakes totally failed (my friends old chrysler, hydraulic line) at speed, and there are a few hectic moments right then when youre like, I wish my brakes worked! Dude had to throw it in park at like 40 MPH and that was the end of that car... Some people out there have this great car, a HONDA, by the way the best I've ever owned, and can't afford shop rates to get their stuff fixed and that's why there's this beautiful forum so people who can't take it to the shop can share information and do it themselves! And keep these cars traveling down the road as they should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 5-gen Williams : You're absolutely right, and I HAVE fallen off the cheater bar. Luckily, I have never injured myself. By far, the safest way to remove the spindle nut is with an impact driver and the appropriate socket. When your low on money and your options are to either fix the brakes with the tools you have or walk; I have often found myself doing things that are less than safe. The method I described is how I have removed the spindle nut on every Honda I have ever needed to remove a spindle nut on: 1986 Accord LX, 1987 CRX DX, 1992 Civc EX, 1993 Integra GS, 1997 Accord EX-V6, and 2002 Civic EX. I still do not have power tools. Over the years, I have devised ways of working on Hondas without them. I thought I might present one method on this out-dated thread incase (as you already alluded to) someone with a similar problem turns to this forum to solve a similar problem. With your contribution and my suggestion, I hope everyone realizes you should always use the right tool for the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humphries Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 in order to get the front rotors off of an accord you need a 2 jaw puller since they're pressed in unlike normal civic/integra rotors are. i ran into this problem with my accord back when i had it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 The spindle nut issue is common to many Hondas. My response was narrow in that it only focused on one step in the removal of the rotor. You're right, the rotors are pressed in. I attempted to remove the rotors, and gave up after a few hours. When I took it to Honda, the tech' put a "hammer" attachment on the front of the impact driver. After dismantling the knuckle/hub as described in the Service Manual, he used this attachment to hit the back of the hub until the rotor popped out. I asked him if he thought it could be done without the impact driver; he didn't think it was possible. I noticed that once the knuckle/hub was disassembled to the point at which the rotor was ready to be pushed out, the only thing that held the knuckle hub to the car was two cotter pins and two castle nuts. When I do my brakes again, I am going to see how much trouble it is to remove the entire knuckle/hub. My Plan: I want find a steel disk roughly d=3 inch, h=1/4 inch. Perhaps scrap metal. I want to use the disk as a protector and hammer the knuckle/hub face down from behind with the knuckle/hub supported on wooden blocks, but with the rotor free to drop. This is my first Honda with pressed hubs, so I am still in denial that any work that involves removing the rotor must be taken to a shop. It's starting to appear as if the solution to most of my trouble is an air compressor and some new tools. Has anyone used some pullers I have seen advertised on the internet? See below: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humphries Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 2 Jaw puller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 I have never been able to use 3 nor 2 jaw puller properly. They always slide out or pull unevenly. Is there any tips you can offer to use this thing right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbrskin Posted December 5, 2007 Share Posted December 5, 2007 To pull the rotor off of the hub I used a 10 lb slide hammer and the adapter plate. Looks like a peace sign. Bolt the plate onto the rotor and screw the hammers slide rod in. With the slides of the weight the rotor came free. I had to do this to replace the wheel lugs. To reinstall I used a 36mm socket and a hammer. 30K miles later and no probs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbrskin Posted December 5, 2007 Share Posted December 5, 2007 Sorry this is what the tool looked like to help anyone out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted December 5, 2007 Share Posted December 5, 2007 To pull the rotor off of the hub I used a 10 lb slide hammer and the adapter plate. Looks like a peace sign. Bolt the plate onto the rotor and screw the hammers slide rod in. With the slides of the weight the rotor came free. I had to do this to replace the wheel lugs. To reinstall I used a 36mm socket and a hammer. 30K miles later and no probs. good post but this thread is 5 months old Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Rotor removal is always a fresh topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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