sherrill70 Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 93 accord - previous owner started car to warm up and came out and the car died = it will not start. it will turn over but no spark and no fuel - the distributor is fine, new plugs and wires, new battery = no sound to the fuel pump = any suggestions? ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 93 accord - previous owner started car to warm up and came out and the car died = it will not start. it will turn over but no spark and no fuel - the distributor is fine, new plugs and wires, new battery = no sound to the fuel pump = any suggestions? ??? Take the valve cover off, look for oil, if there is any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherrill70 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 Take the valve cover off, look for oil, if there is any. what will this mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 what will this mean? If the car was running with low (or no) oil, they engine could have taken a crap while left running (unattended). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherrill70 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 If the car was running with low (or no) oil, they engine could have taken a crap while left running (unattended). it was 4 quarts low ..it turns over but no spark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delsol209 Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 did you just say 4 quarts low Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 You said new plugs, how did the old ones look? You indicated the fuel pump was getting no power, is that what you ment? How do you know this? Have you checked the fues and tested the relays? Fuel pumps tend to stagger to the finish line when they are dying, you may want to isolate the issue with some certainty before laying blame on the fuel pump. But like mentioned before, the engine could have taken a crap, but to be sure, run a compression test on the cylinders and see if there are any strange noises coming from the motor if can get to run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherrill70 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 it was 4 quarts low ..it turns over but no spark well maybe 3 quarts low...what will keep the engine from firing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 well maybe 3 quarts low...what will keep the engine from firing? No I was thinking more along the lines of no oil for 30k miles. You should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherrill70 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 well maybe 3 quarts low...what will keep the engine from firing? new to honda repair - using the haynes repair manual - checked 3 plug connector it has 12 volts on it = the fuel pump has no sound = the manual says to replace pump - i don't understand why it will not fire -there is no spark. as for the previous plugs they were replaced by the previous owner and i don't know what they looked like Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delsol209 Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 relay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherrill70 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 relay? will the relay cause the fuel pump not to work and the engine not to fire??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 new to honda repair - using the haynes repair manual First, you need the Helms manual, then tear the pages out of the Haynes manual and recylce them in a bird cage. checked 3 plug connector it has 12 volts on it = the fuel pump has no sound If the connection has 12 volts but the motor doesn't run, you could have a bad ground, good voltage but low current, poor contacts, dirty contacts, or simply have checked the connection during an "all hot" condition giving you a false negative result. To be certain about the pump, a pressure gauge or some other method of measuring the pressure in the fuel line must be employed. the distributor is fine How do you know the distributor is fine, how did you check it? ...there is no spark. Have you checked the ignition coil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherrill70 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 First, you need the Helms manual, then tear the pages out of the Haynes manual and recylce them in a bird cage. If the connection has 12 volts but the motor doesn't run, you could have a bad ground, good voltage but low current, poor contacts, dirty contacts, or simply have checked the connection during an "all hot" condition giving you a false negative result. To be certain about the pump, a pressure gauge or some other method of measuring the pressure in the fuel line must be employed. How do you know the distributor is fine, how did you check it? Have you checked the ignition coil? swapped out the distributor with a new unit =- read across terminals a & c had a resistance of 2.27 First, you need the Helms manual, then tear the pages out of the Haynes manual and recylce them in a bird cage. If the connection has 12 volts but the motor doesn't run, you could have a bad ground, good voltage but low current, poor contacts, dirty contacts, or simply have checked the connection during an "all hot" condition giving you a false negative result. To be certain about the pump, a pressure gauge or some other method of measuring the pressure in the fuel line must be employed. How do you know the distributor is fine, how did you check it? Have you checked the ignition coil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherrill70 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 swapped out the distributor with a new unit =- read across terminals a & c had a resistance of 2.27 swapped out the distributor with a new unit =- read across terminals a & c had a resistance of 2.27 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delsol209 Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 will the relay cause the fuel pump not to work and the engine not to fire??? i was referring to the fuel pump, and yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherrill70 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 i was referring to the fuel pump, and yes so, should i replace the fuel pump first or the relay???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 so, should i replace the fuel pump first or the relay? ??? I feel like your doing two very newbish things: 1. your not checking things because you do not think they are responsible for your problem 2. your very eager to throw some money at the problem and have it go away. You should test the relay before simply replacing it to eliminate it as a source of the problem. You should test your fuel pump before replacing it. You have only checked one connection, check the rest going to and coming from the fuel pump. If the engine has fired since the plugs were changed, pull them out and see how they look. There could be many reasons for fuel not to get to the chamber, a bad fuel pump is just one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherrill70 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 I feel like your doing two very newbish things: 1. your not checking things because you do not think they are responsible for your problem 2. your very eager to throw some money at the problem and have it go away. You should test the relay before simply replacing it to eliminate it as a source of the problem. You should test your fuel pump before replacing it. You have only checked one connection, check the rest going to and coming from the fuel pump. If the engine has fired since the plugs were changed, pull them out and see how they look. There could be many reasons for fuel not to get to the chamber, a bad fuel pump is just one. i can't pull the relay - i need a 10 mm deep well = yes very much a newbie to hondas - first time working on one - i normally work on old school dodges - i need all the help i can get Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 i can't pull the relay - i need a 10 mm deep well = yes very much a newbie to hondas - first time working on one - i normally work on old school dodges - i need all the help i can get Buy the deep socket, you will use it again. My first car was a 1987 Dodge Omni (no, not the GLHS), you will do fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherrill70 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 Buy the deep socket, you will use it again. My first car was a 1987 Dodge Omni (no, not the GLHS), you will do fine. if relay checks ok ...how do you check the fuel pump...remember i have the haynes manual...and i had a plymouth horizon during those days... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 ...how do you check the fuel pump... Helms advises: 1. check for noise fromt he fuel fill port (cap off) when ignition is switched to (II). -If you did this correctly, then move on to #2. 2. See below: 2a. you need to jump the PGM-Fi connector that runs the pump so that the voltage is available for longer than the 2 seconds test #1 provided. 2b. check voltage between the 12 volt contact on the 3-pin (3P) connection and the body ground. -I think you did this correctly, then move to #3. 3. If the battery voltage is available, check the fuel pump ground, IF the ground is okay, replace the pump. You need to check all the ground connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherrill70 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 Helms advises: 1. check for noise fromt he fuel fill port (cap off) when ignition is switched to (II). -If you did this correctly, then move on to #2. 2. See below: 2a. you need to jump the PGM-Fi connector that runs the pump so that the voltage is available for longer than the 2 seconds test #1 provided. 2b. check voltage between the 12 volt contact on the 3-pin (3P) connection and the body ground. -I think you did this correctly, then move to #3. 3. If the battery voltage is available, check the fuel pump ground, IF the ground is okay, replace the pump. You need to check all the ground connections. ok..i checked the sending unit 3 wire connector 1 yellow 2 small wires and the ground separate is this the correct one to check? if not where is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 ok..i checked the sending unit 3 wire connector 1 yellow 2 small wires and the ground separate is this the correct one to check? if not where is it? This is where I cannot assist you any further, my text is for a later model Accord and the wiring may differ slightly. The ground on my wiring diagram is solid black, the other wires (I have a black/yellow wire too) are seperate. The ground I have goes to Ground#751, you may want to consult a wiring diagram, does the Haynes manual have one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherrill70 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 This is where I cannot assist you any further, my text is for a later model Accord and the wiring may differ slightly. The ground on my wiring diagram is solid black, the other wires (I have a black/yellow wire too) are seperate. The ground I have goes to Ground#751, you may want to consult a wiring diagram, does the Haynes manual have one? thanks for your help!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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