1995 ACCORD EX BOGS

[GIXXER]

HELLO I AM NEW HERE SO SORRY IF I POSTED TO THE WRONG PLACE I HAVE 95 ACCORD EX WITH 179OOO MILES AND WHEN IT COMES TIME TO PASSUP OR FLOOR IT. IT BOGS OUT BUT IT DRIVES AND IDLES FINE HAVE CHECKED ALL THE STUFF TIMEBELT FILTERS PLUGS PUMP INJECTERS SENSORS EVEN HAVE IT AT A LOCAL SHOP AND THEY CAN'T SEEM TO FIGURE IT OUT THERE SAYING IT MIGHT BE THE ECM AND ARE NOT ONE 100% SURE ITS GOT THE NORM VTEC AUTOTRANS.... ANYBODY THE HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APRECIATED

[Turtlehead]

By bogging down, I assume you are describing poor performance (loss of power) and not a transmission symptom. The basic diagnostic procedure for loss of power is to check the following in the following order and see if you come up with the problem. If not then you go to plan B and do other dianostics, but these are the most common causes in the order of most common. So if you wish, you can have them diagnosed:

 

1. Fuel pump issue (although, what you are describing, I would be inclined this is not the issue)

2. Fuel filter (while driving the car under heavy load, completely let off the pedal, if you notice the engine surging (a.k.a. wanting to speed up after your foot is off the pedal) then you are most likely looking at a clogging fuel filter. This is easy to test for with automatics, manuals are harder to feel the surge.

3. Faulty injector resistor (disconnect the injector resistor terminal and check resistance between the 2,3,5 and 6 terminals and terminal 1 which is your power supply. They should all be between 5 and 7 Ohms. If any of them are outside this range try swapping out the injector resistor with a used one.

4. Faulty of dirty fuel injector (though this is least likely) I would for this skip the diagnostics and run some Chevron Tectron fuel system cleaner (should be able to find at the parts stores) through your tank a couple of times and see if it makes a difference.

 

Try these out and let us know how you make out.

[GIXXER]

By bogging down, I assume you are describing poor performance (loss of power) and not a transmission symptom. The basic diagnostic procedure for loss of power is to check the following in the following order and see if you come up with the problem. If not then you go to plan B and do other dianostics, but these are the most common causes in the order of most common. So if you wish, you can have them diagnosed:

 

1. Fuel pump issue (although, what you are describing, I would be inclined this is not the issue)

2. Fuel filter (while driving the car under heavy load, completely let off the pedal, if you notice the engine surging (a.k.a. wanting to speed up after your foot is off the pedal) then you are most likely looking at a clogging fuel filter. This is easy to test for with automatics, manuals are harder to feel the surge.

3. Faulty injector resistor (disconnect the injector resistor terminal and check resistance between the 2,3,5 and 6 terminals and terminal 1 which is your power supply. They should all be between 5 and 7 Ohms. If any of them are outside this range try swapping out the injector resistor with a used one.

4. Faulty of dirty fuel injector (though this is least likely) I would for this skip the diagnostics and run some Chevron Tectron fuel system cleaner (should be able to find at the parts stores) through your tank a couple of times and see if it makes a difference.

 

Try these out and let us know how you make out.

[GIXXER]

i thought that i had found the answer in here but after the oil change it still only goes to about 35-3900 rpms its more of a governer problem or something its not a bog sorry for the wrong info it drives fine and starts fine its just when i try to floor it or pass some one up it won't go over 35-3900 rpm range