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Okay, Mods for the Accord.


StAnGbAnGeR

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Now that I have the bugs worked out on the Accord........................

 

What are some simple mods? I'm going to install an aftermarket header with mid pipe, ditching the cat, and installing a 2.5in cat back with a 4.5in muffler. After that I putting a cold air intake on it. The car has 145k, the timing belt looks alright, no cracks or sign of wear. It's an automatic. The trans shifts hard pretty much in all gears, although there is a flair between 3 to 4th gear in the trans. It doesn't slip or anything, just flairs about 400rpm between shifts, (3rd to 4th gear only). I'm not looking to heavily mod the car just yet, just looking to have a little fun with it, while getting great gas milage. Down the road, I'd like to fab a small turbo kit on it, but for now, just go naturally aspirated for the time being. The car is an EX model (1994) with a 2.2L Vtec (SOHC) motor. I don't want to get into swapping the motor out right now, so with that in mind, what can I do to it to squeaze some extra power out of it? I'm new to Hondas (have worked on quite a few, and have previously owned 2 of them, but never modded).

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Now that I have the bugs worked out on the Accord........................

 

What are some simple mods? I'm going to install an aftermarket header with mid pipe, ditching the cat, and installing a 2.5in cat back with a 4.5in muffler. After that I putting a cold air intake on it. The car has 145k, the timing belt looks alright, no cracks or sign of wear. It's an automatic. The trans shifts hard pretty much in all gears, although there is a flair between 3 to 4th gear in the trans. It doesn't slip or anything, just flairs about 400rpm between shifts, (3rd to 4th gear only). I'm not looking to heavily mod the car just yet, just looking to have a little fun with it, while getting great gas milage. Down the road, I'd like to fab a small turbo kit on it, but for now, just go naturally aspirated for the time being. The car is an EX model (1994) with a 2.2L Vtec (SOHC) motor. I don't want to get into swapping the motor out right now, so with that in mind, what can I do to it to squeaze some extra power out of it? I'm new to Hondas (have worked on quite a few, and have previously owned 2 of them, but never modded).

 

Well, first off, change your tranny fluid. I'd suggest changing it (takes just under 3 quarts per change) 3 times with 500-1000 miles between changes. The tranny holds 9+ quarts but only 3 quarts can be drained at a time due to fluid being in the Torque Converter and stuff. Do 3 changes and you should be good. My accord shifted hard when I got it and after the first fluid change it improved a lot. I just did the second change last night and it got even better. You'll never get rid of the feel of shifting completely as these tranny's are known for shifting on the hard side, but the fluid change makes it feel like it should. Don't forget to clean off the magnetic plug by the way.

 

The 400rpm fluxuation you feel is probably due to the torque converter lockup. I don't know what you mean by "flair", but mine would kick up and down about 400 rpms on the highway with a noticable "shifting/jerk" feeling. Changing the fluid helped this as well.

 

Turbo would be good. F22's are good for boost and the SOHC make awesome torque when boosted....often higher torque numbers than hp numbers. I wouldn't waste the money on the basics I/H/E if you plan to go with boost since those parts won't be used. I plan to put a Megan Racing header and Egay intake w/ K&N on my car down the road just to clean up the engine bay look.....I'm leaving the stock exhaust though, cause I don't want a loud car that runs 16's in the quarter.

 

Don't ditch the cat. For one, the pollution is horrible on a catless car and that's the last thing our world/environment needs. On a weekend racer it's one thing, but a daily driver......NO. Not only that you will gain the same amount of power (dyno proven .....seen the sheets) by getting a high flow cat from catco/magnaflow as you will with a test pipe. So....why kill the environment when you can get the same power without killing the environment. Not only that, your car will sound like butt without a cat....trust me, I've been there.

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...I plan to put a Megan Racing header and Egay intake w/ K&N on my car down the road just to clean up the engine bay look...

 

...Don't ditch the cat. For one, the pollution is horrible on a catless car and that's the last thing our world/environment needs. On a weekend racer it's one thing, but a daily driver......NO. Not only that you will gain the same amount of power (dyno proven .....seen the sheets) by getting a high flow cat from catco/magnaflow as you will with a test pipe. So....why kill the environment when you can get the same power without killing the environment. Not only that, your car will sound like butt without a cat....trust me, I've been there.

 

I've got the Megan full stainless exhaust with the test pipe. It doesn't

sound bad with the resonator out, but it is LOUD AS F###. I am actually

having a magnaflow cat welded in place of the test pipe so I can pass an

emissions test. The cat-less exhaust really smells bad. If I idle the car

the gases get into the interior and it is pretty bad at times. I may have

an exhaust leak, so that is part of it too.

 

There are dyno results of the high flow cats doing just as good as not

having one, so you would be better off keeping one there. I got my

magnaflow piece off amazon for cheaper than anywhere else I saw, it

would have been free shipping too if I didn't live in Alaska.

 

Here's the article. http://images.magnaflow.com/05news/magazin...f/catalytic.pdf

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Okay, I hear you guy on the cat issue. Funds are a little limited for me (this economy stinks), so where would I search for the best deal on a high flow cat. Secondly, I was playing around with one of those Scion Tc s yestarday on the highway, and was holding the car a high RPMs and now I've noticed that the engine sounds wierd at idle, almost like the timing is not quiet right. I'm going to change the timing belt. When they go, or start to go, is there any hint that one is going. The engine is not mis firing, it just idles wierd. I'm going to play it safe, and not beat on the car for a bit, until I change the belt. I'm also going to change the trans fluid, and see if that trans issue goes away... Thanks for the help guys.....

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Why do people think that changing the timing belt is going to also fix a timing issue. In theory, unless you have jumped a tooth on the belt the timing should be fine. As far as knowing if the belt is going to go, you can look at the base of the teeth for very fine cracks. If present then I would replace the belt. Other then visual inspection of the belt there is no way of knowing when it may go. Typically t-belts do not break. Usually teeth strip from the belt causing the timing between the crank and cam to be off, thereby usually damaging the valves and head. Once in the past year I have seen one where the belt actually broke. It had a brand new aftermarket Conitec belt on it. The engine ended up throwing the No 3. piston rod through the block. That required a new engine of course.

 

End product, if you do not have a vehicle history of the car, or know when it was last changed, or know the condition of the belt, then it is best to replace it. From that point on you will now have the history of the belt and you can follow replacement intervals.

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that's what I'm going to go with.....The previous owner kind of skated around the issue when I asked when the timing belt was changed. Since I'm hard on everything I drive, it would be in my best interest to replace it.

 

 

That is the way to go...

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