jakeybob Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 My 94 Accord w/ 165k miles makes a noise when slowing down while in gear. It is the original clutch and manual tranny. Clutch seems good, its definitely old but doesn't seem to slip that I can notice, every gear shifts fine, its a bit hard going into first but not to bad, and everything feels pretty good except for the noise. If the car is in gear, and the buzzing starts, I can pop it into neutral and it stops right away. i also think it stops when I push in the clutch. So, it just happens when coasting to the stop and the gearing is slowing the car, and it usually doesnt last too long. It happens in gears 2-4 at about 2000 to 1700 rpms when slowing down. It may also happen in 5th, but I havent been in a position where I could try. if I'm accelerating or its in neutral, theres no noise, but if im slowing down while in gear i get the vibrating/buzzing metallic noise from 2000 to 1700 rpms. It also seems to happen if the transmission is in neutral and i push in the clutch in those rpm's. It's kinda hard to be sure about that though. any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humphries Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 input shaft or throwout bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeybob Posted February 2, 2009 Author Share Posted February 2, 2009 input shaft or throwout bearing. Thanks, so how big of a problem is this. is this something that could fail suddenly and I could be left stranded? or is it more likely to get progressively worse so I can still get some life out of it. It's just a cheap car I bought for getting around and maybe a few road trips around 500 miles. What's entailed in getting this fixed? Dropping the transmission? If I were to get it fixed should I get the clutch changed at the same time to save on labor costs? How bout the flywheel? Its all original so its gettin a bit old. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 It's the mainshaft bearings. They will get progressively worse until they are destroyed, taking your transmission with it. The transmission has to be removed, and disassembled to replace them. While you have it off, might as well get the clutch replaced, and resurface the flywheel if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyb4321 Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 here is this a honda service bulletin.. maybe this is it.. I know it fixed my car last week .. I have a 96 accord 5speed CUSTOMER W1996 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved ATB 16868-17747 (9605) 1 of 2 See VEHICLES AFFECTED 1994 – 96 ACCORD 4-CYLINDER MAY 13, 1996 94-041 ENGINE Applicable To Model File Under Issue Date Bulletin No. Service Bulletin Exhaust System Buzz at 1,800 rpm (Supersedes 94-041, dated November 28, 1994) SYMPTOM A buzzing noise is heard at 1,800 rpm when accelerating at part throttle. This noise may be heard in cars equipped with either a manual transmission or an automatic transmission (see GENERAL INFORMATION). PROBABLE CAUSE Exhaust system resonance. VEHICLES AFFECTED 1994 – 95 Accord: All 1996 Accord: 4-door – Thru VIN 1HGCD5 TA170937 . . . . . 2-door – Thru VIN 1HGCD7 TA019581 . . . . . Wagon– Thru VIN 1HGCE1 TA005776 . . . . . GENERAL INFORMATION Investigation has discovered two similar, but distinct, exhaust system noises: a buzz at 1,800 rpm, and a groan or drone at 2,000 – 2,400 rpm. 1,800 rpm buzz – This noise – a sound like a vibrating sheet metal piece – is most common in cars with manual transmissions (although it can also occur in cars with automatic transmissions). It can be reproduced most reliably by upshifting from first to second gear at a low speed (so the engine speed is approximately 1,200 rpm) and applying heavy throttle. The noise can be heard as the engine passes through the 1,800 – 2,000 rpm range. It cannot be reproduced by holding the engine at 1,800 rpm in neutral or any other gear. Use the parts and procedures in this service bulletin to repair this problem. 2,000 rpm groan – This noise is most common in cars with automatic transmissions. It can be reproduced by driving the car in D3 or D4 in the 2,000 – 2,400 rpm range with a steady throttle. It is most noticeable when driving up a slight grade or in stop-and-go traffic. More sensitive owners may also feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel, accelerator pedal, or floorpan. The parts and procedures in this service bulletin will have very little effect on this noise. Any noises in the 1,800 – 2,400 rpm range that remain after installation of this kit should be considered characteristic of the vehicle. Other possible causes – Bent or misaligned components in the exhaust system can cause noises at various engine speeds. Diagnose this by examining the rubber exhaust system hangers. A problem is indicated by one or more of them being twisted. Correct this by loosening all the bolts in the exhaust system so the system can seek its own “neutral point.” Then retighten the bolts. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the gaskets (see PARTS INFORMATION) at both ends of the mid-pipe. Use new mounting hardware. 1. Remove the four bolts mounting the mid-pipe to the catalytic converter and exhaust pipe A. NOTE: Some models have the heated oxygen sensor mounted in the mid-pipe. Do not damage it while doing this repair. MID-PIPE GASKET (Replace.) Replace. Replace. GASKET (Replace.) 2 of 2 94-041 2. Remove and discard the old gaskets. 3. Install the new gaskets. 4. Reinstall the mid-pipe to the catalytic converter and exhaust pipe A with the new bolts, nuts, and springs from the kit. Torque all four nuts to 22 NVm (16 lb-ft). 5. Examine the exhaust pipe hangers; make sure they are sitting vertically. GOOD NO GOOD PARTS INFORMATION Exhaust mid-pipe fastener kit: P/N 18010-SV4-305, H/C 5027362 (Kit contains two gaskets, four flange bolts, four springs, and four self-locking nuts.) WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. Operation number: 311102 Flat rate time: 0.6 hour Failed part: P/N 18229-SV4-003 H/C 4646386 Defect code: 042 Contention code: B07 Template ID: 94-041A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turtlehead Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Yeh, My initial thought was the 1,800 rpm buzz issue, but that should only occur with heavy load while accelerating through that rpm range. As far as my thoughts are now based on the senario described above it sounds like could be the transmission nose (main) bearing. However, it would be worth replacing the doughnuts and spring bolts on the A pipe first to see if it goes away, or at a minimum, this person should try to get it to do it while accelerating. Could be one of these items or as I have seen before it could be both. Main shaft bearing failure in this generation Accord w/ manual trany (although not unheard of) is relatively rare unless the car has had a hard life of abuse and neglect. Other items to look at are the hanger brackets and heat shields on the exhaust system. I would certainly rule out any exhuast vibrations. If the nose bearing is failing you should be able to hear it with the car on idle (radio off, window down and hood up) with the car in neutral and not pressing the clutch. When you press the clutch if the nose bearing is failing you will hear the noise go way and then come back when you release the clutch. You can also have someone work the clutch while you are listening under the hood over the trany. It is a very distinct sound that will go away once the clutch is pressed. If no change is heard then you are probably dealing with exhaust issue(s). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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