dave jg Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 To remove a front rotor: slightly loosen the lug nuts of one tire, safely jack up that side of the car only, put a jackstand in place, remove the lug nuts and the tire. Remove the two long bolts that retain the brake caliper, lift the caliper out of its bracket and secure the caliper out of the way so there is no strain on its rubber brake tubing. Remove the two bolts that hold on the caliper's bracket, and remove the bracket, leaving the brake pads in the bracket. Now remove the large center hub nut from the spindle. If you don't have the proper metric socket, a 1 & 7/16 sae will work. The opposite tire must be fully on the ground and blocked to prevent the hub you are working on from turning while you are trying to remove the hub nut. Also, the emergency brake must be on and the rear tires must be blocked to prevent car from moving. The hub nuts both have normal threads (turn cc to loosen). The hub nut is a bearing adjustment nut and so should not be torqued tight; however it may very well be corroded very tight. If it is, use a corrosion-loosening spray. If you don't have heavy duty air tools, try using a heavy 1" bladed chisel on the middle of all the flat parts of the nut (NOT on the edges that the socket must push against!) to loosen the stuck nut and urge it to turn cc. After enough pounding with hammer and chisel, and frequent spraying, hopefully the socket will be able to remove the hub nut. [it is a good idea to buy new hub nuts for re-installation, because the hub nut must be retained in its proper bearing-holding position by using a punch to deform the thin outer lip of the hub nut into the notch of the spindle threads, NOT by tightening the hub nut. This thin outer lip can easily tear away with repeated punching, rendering it incapable of preventing the hub nut from coming loose, a dangerous safety condition.] There are 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor; remove two of these (the ones closest to the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions) and re-insert two 10mm x 1.25 three inch long or longer well-greased bolts; when these two new bolts (they should be available at Ace Hardware) contact the backing plate (which will be supported against these bolts by the inner hub), alternate tightening them until the outer hub (attached to the rotor) separates and can be pulled away from the car. Remove all 4 bolts (the two new long ones and the remaining two original ones) and the rotor will separate from the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 cool story bro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocifero Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Why is this here? And why is it in the most unreadable format of all time? Weird first post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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