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1991 Honda Accord LX Radiator Fan Issue!


Speakeasys

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So I bought my accord from auction with a twin/dual cam engine but I dont know how to hook up the radiator dual fans with only one radiator relay cap plastic thing. The other fan just has a blue and black cable. Then the one plastic relay had a live red wire when hooked up to the battery runs constantly even when the card off. What do I do? Ahhhh. Thank you.

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Can you get the engine code off of it? No accord with a 4 cyl ever had a dohc engine stock.

 

The dual radiator fans: one is for the ac system and wouldn't run by default unless the ac system needed the cooling or someone had modified the wiring.

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You damn near took a picture of the engine code in the first pic. The resolution on the picture just isn't quite high enough for me to zoom in and see the number. If you look along the bottom edge of the picture of the entire engine you will see a flat metal square just left of the exhaust manifold cover and the radiator hose.

 

The paint marker on the valve cover leads me to believe that it is indeed a junkyard swap. But we shall see. And just to be sure I re-consulted my Accord spec sheets and sure enough there was a DOHC I4 for the Accord but it only ever saw action in Europe and Japan. So I stand by my position you have a swapped motor. Which can be both good or bad.

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So i did my best to re-run from the battery back to everything else. boy is it confusing. so from the battery a line runs into the dash and all the way back to the trunk to a little three wire transfer. but whats weird is i check the radiator relay from the actual radiator fan and it runs into a couple cable runs that go into the fog lights and head lights but ultimately it comes out to a single cable the was running to a patch into that cable that goes to the trunk that was a postitive. so when i hook it up to it like it was originally the radiator fan runs constantly. even when the car is off. does this mean i need to check the alternator or the two heat sensor things from the diagrams? man such a mickey mouse job. thank you. Also I do believe it to be a F22B swap junkyard engine. What suggestions do you have?

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From Wikipedia:

 

F22B

 

This engine was used in the 1992–1996 Honda Prelude Si in Japan. It is similar to the H23A.

Specifications

  • 2.2 L
  • Bore × Stroke: 85.0 × 95.0 mm
  • Displacement: 2156 cc
  • Valve Configuration: DOHC, 16 valves
  • Compression ratio: 9.3:1
  • Max power: 166 hp (119 kW) @ 6000 rpm
  • Max torque: 150 lb·ft (200 N m) @ 5000 rpm

 

Not a bad engine, but you are going to kind of be on your own for figuring out the wiring.

 

The wire transfer in the trunk is likely just from someones old stereo system and they couldn't figure out the correct wiring so just strung together something from there that made it work. From what I see on wiki I would look at a manual from a 92-96 prelude. The h23 series of engines were all very similar and if you are stumped that might be your only option unless you speak japanese.

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I just checked the car on the Department of consumer Affairs website and it last passed smog 04/17/2011. Think it'll pass smog? Just a guess. I'm not trying to drive it until I have it all legit and ready to go on the road.

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Most likely. Honda engines aren't known for being problematic with emissions provided you have all the parts you are supposed to have: catalytic convertor and such.

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It sounds like what you need for the most part is time. Correcting wiring issues doesn't cost much money, if any. It just takes forever figuring out what goes where when you have a non-stock motor that you had nothing to do with installing.

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It should have two relays (one for AC, one for condensor) and they are

both the same type of relay.

The easy thing to try is to pull both relays out (mark them first, so

you know which goes where in case you do find that the condensor relay

is bad).

Then put the AC relay in the condensor slot and see if it now works

correctly.

If it does, replace the condensor relay (obviously the other one you

pulled out - now you see why you'll want to mark them).

A relay is an electric switch. It activates a contact when current is

sensed on its input (coil).

The timer unit takes care of keeping the relay turned on when the car

is hot and you turn the car off. It could be that the connection from

the sensor to the timer is bad so follow the wire from the sensor back

and make sure it makes good contact.

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